Luang Prabang
This morning I sat on a leather armchair in a coffee shop called Joma in central Luang Prabang. The cafe’s furniture was contemporary, the walls were plain grey concrete and hung with paintings by local artists, and the staff were attentive and efficient. I had a cream cheese bagel and a cup of coffee for breakfast, and read a couple of chapters of the Blind Assassin on my e-reader. I was surrounded by Westerners sipping on lattes and cappucinos, many of them typing away on laptops logged into the free Wifi. It could have been New York or London.
It all felt very different from the past week or so of cycling. Aside from the others on the tour, I have hardly seen a Westerner and there has been no prospect of eating Western food. Arriving in Luang Prabang two days ago was a bit of a shock to the system. There were tourists everywhere and for our final meal of the tour we were taken to a fancy French restaurant. (Three of us rebelled and ate upmarket Lao food instead.)
Despite the initial shock, I love Luang Prabang and plan to stay on for a good few days. There’s plenty to see but it is also a great place to just kick back and relax. I’ll probably cycle out to some nearby waterfalls one day. I may go for a ride on an elephant. I’ll definitely have a massage or two.
I’ll also find time to fill you in on the past week or so of cycling. It’s been really good fun, an amazing way to see Laos and I’ve got a few stories to tell.
